I'm trying to save money and doing a bit of renovation on my house. Can anyone tell me how to install a metal roof please?
Answered: 2019-08-07 00:25:13
I can't tell you, but I can give you the link that I used. Just to let you know that I put it over my shingles, but they were in great condition - and this is key. Check that first -href=" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8cVDUV_z4TA" > description Good luck!
Here you go. Exposed Fastener Installation
Step 1: Start Square
When you're installing a metal roofing panel, make sure you're starting square. This means that your vertical lines are all running square to your eave.You must start square because if the first panel is tilted a little bit, then all the panels that come after are going to be tilted too. When you're starting the roof, you want to square off the edge and adjust your panel if you need to. For example, if this particular roof was off a little bit, even by just half an inch, I would tilt our panel a little bit so that we ran square, starting with the first panel.Step 2: Cut Panel to Length and Add Eave Trim
You might get a panel that is too long. When you're doing an exposed fastener eave installation, you want to overhang the eave by one and a half or two inches at most. Put your tape up against the end wall and measure down to the edge of your eave trim.To do so, flip the panel over and make marks on the reverse side. Using a square or a straight edge, you can then join those two lines to create your cut-line.Next, you need to cut through the male and the female rib to get to the flat of the panel. Using duckbill snips to ensure a nice clean edge, then come through the flat of the pan. Make sure during this process that you are wearing your gloves. Last, cut the female rib. Get 1.5 inches to overhang at the eave, and you're ready to install it.Step 3: Apply Sealant Tape
Between the eave trim and the underside of the panel, apply one row of sealant tape. Remember, sealant tape goes between all layers of metal. Apply the sealant tape along the center of the entire eave and remove the tape backing.Step 4: Installation Using Exposed Fasteners
Now install your roof panels. Make sure the panel is square to the eave of the roof so that all of panels installed afterwards are straight. Next, put a screw into the fastening strip to keep it steady before installing the screws along the face. Along the fastening strip of the SL16, always use the pancake head fastener. It's the low-profile head that won’t dimple the next panel when it comes up, which is very important. Spaced at 12 inches from fastener to fastener, tighten them but don't over-tighten. Over-tightening draws the panel down and puts tension into the panel.Next you will install exposed fasteners along the center of the pan, and make sure that the fasteners thread the sealant tape beneath to create a watertight seal. The screw you use in the center of the pan is a wood-grip. This is a neoprene washer fastener. It's a painted fastener that matches the panel, and you’ll need to make sure that it threads the sealant tape beneath the panel. Attach three fasteners, one on each side and one in the middle. Be sure to not over-tighten the fastener. If you do, it squashes out the neoprene washer which gets exposed to the sun. This causes it to dry out and crack much faster. You can then continue to attach and install more panels until the roof is covered.Hidden Fastener Installation
Step 1: Install Offset Cleat
Install the offset cleat along the eave, and then you are ready to install the metal roofing panels. The offset cleat allows you to create a true hidden fastener installation.Step 2: Bend Panel Edge
We will prepare the end of this panel by cutting up one inch on either side, folding under, and removing these two ribs. This will allow us to install this panel and clip it into the offset cleat, making our fasteners completely hidden.Do this by sliding the hemming tool over and bending under one inch. This creates a true 180-degree bend. Next, cut the male rib back a quarter of an inch so that if it is sticking past a little bit, it doesn't keep the next panel from coming up flush with the edge of the cleat.Step 3: Installation Using Hidden Fasteners
Now that we have put the one-inch clip on the metal panel and cut the ribs back flush, we can install the panel by clipping it into the offset cleat. Slide the edge up through the offset cleat so that it is fulling engaged and flush along the edge. Make sure that the panel is sitting back from the edge of the roof by half an inch. If you put the cleat flush with the edge of the roof, any jogging will be visible from the ground.Now that the panel's been installed, put a fastener through the nailing flange using a pancake head screw. If you see that the edge of the roof is sticking up a bit, use a block of wood with a towel on it and a rubber mallet to push it down so that it's nice and flat to the roof-bed.
I'd get a specialist to do that. Your roof is really important, and although metal means that you won't get rot or fires or anything, there's still a chance that you could really mess it up if you do it yourself, so just don't. Put in the investment and it will last you for years.
The Metal Roofing Alliance have you sorted for this. There's a PDF you can download (I find this much easier than videos but then I am a bit old school) and then you can have it up there with you to help if you get stuck. Here you go: href"file:///Users/admin/Downloads/MCA_Roofing_Installation_Manual_-_Final.pdf" > description
Yeah. You need to check your local building codes but I went ahead and installed one right over my old shingles. Works great. You need to make sure that water vapor doesn't get trapped though. Get some furring strips as insulation and then put the metal over that. In terms of how to do it, it's too long here, but you can get a book in the library on it.
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